Lima and Paracas

Dear Lilioftheworld.com reader, here is Izabela, your guest writer. I recently returned from my trip to Peru and I wanted to share with you my fresh experience. Peru had been on my radar for quite a long time now. I have a dream to visit all seven wonders of the world in the next few years and Machu Picchu was my fourth conquered. We spent 12 days in Peru and visited many different places, this is why I will write two separate blog posts. Otherwise it will be veeeery very long! Let me start with Lima and Paracas where we were for half of the time.

Useful tips

1. Interesting facts about Peru

• Inca Civilization: The ancient Inca civilization left behind a remarkable legacy, including not only Machu Picchu but also extensive road networks, impressive agricultural terraces, and intricate artwork, providing endless fascination for history buffs.
• Sustainable Tourism: With more than 1,800 species of birds, thousands of different plants and amazing cultural heritage, Peru is increasingly prioritizing sustainable tourism practices. The country aims at preserving its natural and cultural treasures for future generations while providing meaningful experiences for travelers.
• The Amazon Rainforest: A significant portion of the Amazon Rainforest falls within Peru’s borders.
• Nazca Lines Enigma: The Nazca Lines, a series of giant geoglyphs etched into the Nazca Desert, remain an enigma, with theories ranging from astronomical calendars to alien communication, sparking intrigue among conspiracy theorists and curious minds.
• Colossal Andes: Peru is home to a significant portion of the Andes Mountains, boasting some of the world’s highest peaks and offering unparalleled opportunities for trekking, mountaineering, and adventure sports.
• Pisco Paradise: Lively festivals and delicious cocktails like the Pisco Sour celebrate Pisco, Peru’s national spirit. Exploring Peru’s vineyards and distilleries offers a taste of the country’s flavorful heritage.

2. Transportation

I think we used every type of transportation while in Peru! But mainly we moved around with Uber. Prices are relatively low as fuel is partially funded by the government, so you can expect a 30-minute Uber ride to cost around $5-6 (as of May 2024). Between towns we traveled by bus or booked organized trips.

We arrived in Lima after midnight, so for us the best option was to use the airport pick-up offered by our hotel. However Uber prices would have been better. Lima is a huge city, so depending on where you stay the price could vary, but for a 40-50 minute ride we paid around $11. Traffic is extremely busy, take this into consideration when calculating your airport journey.

In the city you have the option to use the public transportation. A single ticket costs 1.50 soles ($0.40) for one zone and 2.35 soles if you travel between various zones. The inconvenience comes from the fact that you cannot pay inside the bus, you need to purchase a card and recharge it every time. You can purchase the card for 5 soles from a dispensing machine at the bus stop. Sometimes there are people at the bus stop from which you can buy your ticket (meaning recharge your card). These buses are part of the Metropolitano System.

From Lima to Paracas we used two different bus companies. Best provider in my opinion is Cruz del Sur. The buses are modern, clean and comfortable. It is 3-4 hours ride. The other company we used is called Jaksa. We bought our tickets from Redbus.com platform and possibly got scammed as when we arrived at the bus station, it turned out that this company only goes to Pisco, but not Paracas. Jaksa’s buses leave from a very shady neighborhood and the buses are very outdated and dirty. Luckily, the lady there gave us tickets to Pisco (as Redbus is actually their partner). They left us at Pisco and we took a colectivo (shared taxi) to Paracas for 30 soles. It was another 30-minute ride.

3. Accommodation

Based on our online research, the safest neighborhoods for tourists are Miraflores and San Isidro. Both are located along the sea coast. Additionally, they are popular among expats. We stayed in both, and I really loved the area. It is modern, clean, and has amazing restaurants and bars. Furthermore, it is a balanced mix between old colonial mansions and contemporary tall skyscrapers. Another barrio I really loved is Barranco; however, it is a bit far from the city center.

4. Best time to visit

• Dry Season (May to October): This period is considered the best time to visit Peru, particularly for trekking to Machu Picchu and exploring the Andes. Moreover, the weather is generally dry and sunny, with clear skies offering optimal visibility for scenic views. Furthermore, visitors can enjoy the pleasant climate and take advantage of the peak season’s vibrant atmosphere.
• Peak Tourist Season: Keep in mind that with ideal weather comes higher tourist numbers, so popular destinations like Machu Picchu and Cusco can be crowded. Therefore It’s advisable to book accommodations and tours well in advance during this time.
• Shoulder Seasons (April and November): April and November mark the transition periods between the wet and dry seasons. These months can offer a good balance between fewer crowds and relatively stable weather conditions, making them favorable for travel. Trekking routes like the Inca Trail may be less crowded during these months compared to the peak season.
• Wet Season (November to April): While the wet season brings rain to many parts of Peru, it’s also an excellent time to visit certain regions. The Amazon Rainforest experiences its peak biodiversity during this time, offering fantastic opportunities for wildlife spotting and lush green landscapes. Coastal cities like Lima and Paracas experience mild temperatures during the wet season, although there may be occasional showers. It’s essential to consider the impact of rain on outdoor activities and trekking routes in the Andes during this period.
• Festival Season: Peru hosts various cultural festivals throughout the year, which can add a unique dimension to your travel experience. For example, Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) in June in Cusco is a vibrant celebration of Inca heritage, while Carnaval in February showcases colorful street festivities across the country.

5. How long should you stay?

If we are talking about Peru as a whole, 2 weeks are the absolute minimum. For Lima I consider two-three days to be sufficient time to give you a feeling of the city and its points of interest. Same for Paracas – 2-3 days should work.

6. Some more practical tips from my visit.

• Although card payments are widely accepted, you will need local currency for tips, markets, souvenirs, etc. You can exchange soles in casas de cambio or from the people with the yellow vests around the city. Banks usually do not exchange or even if they do, their rates are worse. My advice is to ask at a few places because all of them offer different rates.
• Lima’s traffic is horrible so be prepared to be stuck in a traffic jam quite often.
• Learn some Spanish! People in Lima tend to speak more English than the people in the other regions, but it is still very limited.
• Make sure the food you eat is fresh. Do not drink tap water and preferably wash your teeth with bottled water. It was my first time getting food poisoning and I have been to 56 countries, including India!
• Wi-Fi is available almost everywhere, but in case you cannot find locals are super helpful and are always willing to share some megas with you!
• Negotiating prices is accepted and encouraged. Do not get greedy though 🙂
• Book the tours on the spot, never online. Prices are 2-3 times cheaper! Do not take the first offer, visit 2-3 places to compare.
• Food and cocktails are amazing, make sure you taste at least a few local dishes, you wont regret it!

Now let me move to the more interesting part – what to visit in Lima and Paracas!

What to see in Lima!

Lima’s old city center, also known as the Historic Center of Lima (Centro Histórico de Lima), is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to numerous architectural gems, cultural landmarks, and historical sites. Here are some of the must-see attractions that we covered during our free walking tour:

         1. Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas)

The main square of Lima, Plaza Mayor, is the heart of the historic center. It features the Government Palace, the Cathedral of Lima, and the Archbishop’s Palace, showcasing colonial architecture and serving as a focal point for cultural and political events.

       2. San Francisco Monastery (Monasterio de San Francisco)

One of Lima’s most important religious complexes, the San Francisco Monastery, features a magnificent church, catacombs, and a library containing thousands of antique texts and manuscripts. Furthermore, this historic site offers a glimpse into Peru’s colonial past, while also serving as a remarkable architectural gem.

          3. Church of Santo Domingo (Iglesia de Santo Domingo)

This historic church, located near Plaza Mayor, boasts a stunning baroque facade and ornate interiors, which have earned it widespread renown. It houses the remains of several saints and features intricate altars and artwork.

           4. Plaza San Martín

A short walk from the historic center, Plaza San Martín is a bustling public square surrounded by neoclassical buildings and adorned with statues commemorating Peru’s independence hero, José de San Martín.

           5. Basilica and Convent of San Pedro

Dating back to the 17th century, this church and convent complex is known for its impressive facade and well-preserved cloisters. It offers a peaceful retreat from the bustling city streets.

           6. Torre Tagle Palace (Palacio Torre Tagle)

This beautifully preserved colonial mansion, with its striking baroque facade and ornate balconies, is home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. While the interior is not open to the public, the exterior is a popular spot for photography enthusiasts.

           7. Church of La Merced (Iglesia de La Merced)

Dating back to the 16th century, the Church of La Merced is known for its stunning architecture and impressive collection of religious art. The highlight is the Baroque-style altarpiece in the main chapel.

           8. Chinatown (Barrio Chino)

Lima’s Chinatown is a bustling district filled with colorful shops, restaurants, and cultural attractions. Visitors can explore its lively streets, sample Chinese cuisine, and discover the vibrant fusion of Peruvian and Chinese cultures.

Other interesting places outside of the Old Historic center:

           1. Paseo de la República (El Malecón)

This scenic boulevard runs along the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean, offering panoramic views of the coastline and the city skyline. It’s a popular spot for leisurely walks, jogging, and enjoying breathtaking sunsets.

            2. Chinese park Miraflores

           3. Love Park (Parque del Amor)

The Love Park is a romantic seaside park located in the Miraflores district of Lima. The iconic sculpture “El Beso” (The Kiss) by Peruvian artist Victor Delfín, depicting a couple locked in a passionate embrace, is well-known. The park offers stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and is a popular spot for couples, tourists, and locals alike to enjoy leisurely strolls, admire the sunset, and take in the beautiful coastal scenery.

           4. Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros)

The Bridge of Sighs is a historic wooden bridge located in the Barranco neighborhood of Lima. Built in the 19th century, the bridge is adorned with ornate wooden carvings and arches, giving it a charming and romantic ambiance. Legend has it that if you make a wish and hold your breath while crossing the bridge, your wish will come true. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Barranco’s most iconic landmarks and is surrounded by cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings, and bohemian cafes.

          5. Barranco neighborhood

Barranco is a bohemian and artistic neighborhood situated along the coast of Lima. Known for its vibrant cultural scene, eclectic architecture, and lively nightlife, Barranco attracts artists, musicians, and creatives from all over Peru and beyond. The neighborhood is characterized by its colorful colonial mansions, street art, and charming plazas. Visitors to Barranco can explore its numerous art galleries, boutique shops, and trendy cafes, or take a leisurely stroll along the Malecón de Barranco, a scenic seaside promenade offering panoramic views of the ocean. Barranco also hosts several cultural events and festivals throughout the year, including art exhibitions, live music performances, and food fairs. It was definitely my favorite part of Lima!

What to see in Paracas!

Paracas is a small beach town that is a good starting point for exploring some very interesting nearby locations. We researched the tours offered online to get an idea about the prices, and when we arrived, we visited a few tourist agencies to ask about offers. The prices were two three times cheaper! Some negotiation can also lower them further. We selected the following three tours:

          1. Tour to Islas Ballestas

Islas Ballestas, also known as the Ballestas Islands, is a group of small islands located off the Pacific coast of Peru near the town of Paracas. These islands are renowned for their abundant wildlife, including sea lions, Humboldt penguins, pelicans, and numerous species of seabirds. Visitors can take boat tours from Paracas to explore the islands and observe the diverse marine and birdlife. The tour itself lasts for around two hours and all the boats leave early in the morning between 8 and 11am. The best price we got was 46 soles/p ($12).

           2. Tour to Ica and Huacachina Oasis

Huacachina Oasis is a picturesque desert oasis located near the city of Ica in southwestern Peru. Towering sand dunes surround Huacachina, renowned for its natural beauty and recreational activities, particularly sandboarding and dune buggy rides. Moreover, visitors can climb the massive sand dunes for panoramic views of the oasis and enjoy adrenaline-pumping adventures like sandboarding down the steep slopes. Furthermore, the oasis itself features palm-lined lagoons where visitors can relax, paddleboat, or take a leisurely walk around the tranquil waters.

Huacachina is also a popular spot for watching spectacular sunsets over the desert landscape. Typically, the tour lasts for around 7-8 hours in total. Given that the city is 2 hours away from Paracas, the trip includes visiting a local winery house, pisco and wine tasting, a panoramic bus ride around Ica, and ends at Huacachina Oasis where we had a 1-hour sand buggy tour with sandboarding. Notably, all entrance taxes were included as well as the transportation back and forth to Paracas. The best price we got was 110 soles per person ($30). We combined the two tours in one day since the tour to Ica leaves only once a day at 12 pm.

           3. Nazca Lines

The Nazca Lines are a series of ancient geoglyphs etched into the desert plains of southern Peru, near the town of Nazca. Created by the Nazca culture between 500 BCE and 500 CE, these massive drawings depict various animals, plants, geometric shapes, and humanoid figures, some of which are several hundred meters long. Interestingly, theories suggest that the Nazca Lines may have served as astronomical calendars, religious symbols, or pathways for ceremonial processions. Although the purpose and significance of these ancient geoglyphs remain a mystery, visitors can take scenic flights over the Nazca Lines to view these intricate designs from above and marvel at their scale and precision. This offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient Peruvian civilization and culture. This is exactly what my friends did; however, I wasn’t interested in this tour, so I stayed in Paracas.

Consequently, the best option for our limited time was a direct flight from Pisco’s airport, which included hotel pick-up, a 1.5-hour flight above the Nazca Lines with a small plane, and a return to Paracas. The total length of the tour was 4 hours, and the best price was $300 per person. Alternatively, if you have more time, you can book your own bus ticket to Nazca, which is 4 hours away, and then take the flight directly from there. It’s definitely more budget friendly option, but it’s time consuming.

Where to eat and drink in Lima and Paracas

During my time in Paracas, I endured food poisoning, leading to two very unpleasant days. Nevertheless, I will approach my recommendations with utmost caution, as there are still a few places that warrant mentioning!

• Cevicheria Lobo de Mar – this was the best restaurant we visited during our stay in Peru! The place itself is quite modest and simple, but the food is to die for! The Sopa Pariuela is the best Peruvian dish for seafood lovers! I ordered Jalea de mariscos which was also extremely tasty. Prices are good and the portions are enormous.

• 27 tapas – for rooftop bar lovers only! Miraflores has many skyscrapers and as expected some of them have great views. This bar has great vibe and the cocktails are amazing!

• Bar Zarcillo, Paracas Luxury hotel – this resort allows visitor who are not guests of the hotel and it’s a nice place to have a stroll at. It’s bar offers great views to the sea.

• Santuario Restobar, Paracas. I haven’t tried the food here because we went just for drinks, but I really loved the atmosphere!

It was a long post, but those of you who made it until the end get the chance to enjoy some Lima & Paracas impressions here:

Thank you for reading along! I hope I helped you decide what to see in Lima and Paracas!

For more great long haul trip ideas, please take a look at our dedicated Long haul trips section.

Lilioftheworld.com wishes you Happy Travels!