Bolivia,  Long Haul Trips

5 days in Bolivia

Dear Lilioftheworld.com reader, here is Izabela, your guest writer. I am a passionate traveler and I certainly have a bucket list of places that I dream of visiting. Recently, I fulfilled one of these dreams by visiting Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. I combined this trip with my plans in Peru, creating a short but fulfilling journey. With only around five days in the country, we focused our stay on La Paz and the Uyuni region. So please allow me to share my honest opinion about everything that we managed to see and visit during this short period of time.

Useful tips

1. Interesting facts about Bolivia

  • Salar de Uyuni: Bolivia is home to the world’s largest salt flat, Salar de Uyuni, which spans over 10,000 square kilometers. It is a major tourist attraction known for its stunning reflective surface during the rainy season.
  • Two Capitals: Bolivia has two capitals: Sucre, the constitutional capital, and La Paz, the seat of government and executive capital. La Paz is the highest capital city in the world, sitting at an elevation of about 3,650 meters (11,975 feet) above sea level.
  • Diverse Ecosystems: Bolivia boasts an incredibly diverse range of ecosystems, from the Amazon rain forest to the Andes mountains and the Altiplano plateau.
  • Lake Titicaca: Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, straddles the border between Bolivia and Peru. Furthermore, it is one of the largest lakes in South America and holds great cultural and historical significance for the indigenous peoples of the region.
  • Ancient Civilizations: Bolivia has a rich history of ancient civilizations, including the Tiwanaku culture, which predated the Incas. The ruins of Tiwanaku, near Lake Titicaca, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and a testament to the region’s advanced pre-Columbian cultures.
  • Coca Leaves: The coca leaf has been cultivated and used in Bolivia for thousands of years. It is considered sacred by the indigenous people and is used for medicinal, cultural, and religious purposes. Despite its association with cocaine production, the coca leaf itself has many traditional uses and is legally grown in Bolivia.
  • Witches’ Market: In La Paz, there’s a famous Witches’ Market (Mercado de las Brujas) where vendors sell potions, dried herbs, and ritualistic items for Aymara witchcraft. It’s a unique place that offers insight into Bolivia’s rich indigenous traditions and beliefs.
  • El Camino de la Muerte: Also known as the “Death Road,” Yungas Road is a notorious stretch of road in Bolivia, considered one of the most dangerous in the world. However, it has become a popular attraction for thrill-seeking cyclists looking to navigate its treacherous paths and stunning landscapes.
  • Colorful Festivals: Bolivia is known for its vibrant festivals, such as the Oruro Carnival, a UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. This festival features elaborate costumes, traditional dances, and lively music, reflecting Bolivia’s rich cultural heritage.

2. Transportation

We used both public and private transport while in Bolivia. In La Paz, we primarily moved around with Uber, as it was quite affordable, especially for a group of people. Another mode of transportation was the cable car, which is very well developed and connects many parts of the city. Specifically, the service, also known as “Mi Teleférico,” was inaugurated in 2014 with the primary goal of alleviating traffic congestion and providing an efficient, reliable mode of transportation between La Paz and its neighboring city, El Alto. La Paz is situated at an elevation of approximately 3,650 meters (11,975 feet) above sea level, and El Alto is even higher at around 4,150 meters (13,615 feet).

The cable car provides passengers with stunning panoramic views of the city’s mountainous terrain and urban landscape, making it a popular attraction for tourists as well as a practical transit option for locals. There are 10 lines in operation each identified by a color. The cabins can transport up to 10 people at a time and run continuously, ensuring minimal wait times and consistent service. We made a small circle jumping on four different lines and my favorite were the Yellow and the Purple one. The ticket is 3 bolivianos (around $0.40 as of April 2024) and you need to purchase a new one every time you change the line.

For our trip to Uyuni we selected a night bus.

This was the most convenient and affordable option for us as internal flights can be quite pricey. The night bus takes 9h to reach Uyuni. Leaves at 9-9.30pm from La Paz and arrives at 6am. It’s a sleeping bus with 16 inclination seats. It’s way more comfortable than a long-haul flight, to be honest. Additionally, the price for the return ticket was around $45-50. We used a company called Cisne and bought our tickets in advance. However, when we arrived at the train station, there were dozens of companies offering the same route, so I believe you can easily buy your ticket on the spot.

The tourist attractions we visited with organized group tours. This was the most convenient way to explore more places for the limited amount of time we had.

3. Accomodation

Where to stay in La Paz

La Paz is a big city, and some areas are safer than others. However, we only spent one night there, but the zone we picked was towards the more modern and safer part of the city. I’m talking about Sopocachi. It is one of the safest areas in La Paz, meaning you can go out for late dinners without worries. Sopocachi is quite a central location which gives the opportunity to walk to most places in the city. A walk to the downtown takes around 15 minutes. There are some great restaurants and bars in the area. We stayed in a private apartment in one of the tallest buildings which revealed incredible views from above!

If you prefer a more central location, you can easily stay downtown; however, it might be slightly less safe at night. Nevertheless, most of the tourist attractions and agencies are located in this area, so it will be convenient if you have limited time and/or are looking for hostel accommodations. Additionally, you can find some good restaurants in the neighborhood.

Where to stay in Uyuni

This is a tricky one, but my honest answer would be: don’t stay in Uyuni, which is quite the opposite of what we did, but hear me out. Initially, we did a brief research of the tour options to Salar de Uyuni, and most companies were offering a 3-day tour exploring several locations in the area. However, the accommodations included were dorms shared with many people and shared bathrooms. This is something that I no longer prefer in my 30s, as I don’t really enjoy it. Consequently, we decided to book a hotel and do day tours instead.

However, when we arrived, we unfortunately realized that this was not an option, as there weren’t any day tours to the locations we wanted to visit besides the Salar. Consequently, we paid for two nights in a relatively expensive hotel for the area, with only two options for day trips, one of which wasn’t very attractive. I’ll elaborate further afterward.

With that being said, if you want to visit a few places in Uyuni – go and join one of the 3-day organized tours (sacrificing the accommodation options) or if you only want to visit the Salar – book a night in a good hotel as the city itself is extremely dirty and there is absolutely nothing to see there! More about this below.

We stayed in Casa del Sal, a decent salt hotel offering spa amenities. Since we were so exhausted from the past two weeks of traveling, we needed some relaxation time and decided to treat ourselves a bit.

4. Best time to visit

The best time to visit Bolivia depends on what you want to experience and which regions you plan to visit. Generally, the most popular time to visit is during the dry season, which offers the most comfortable weather and best conditions for travel and outdoor activities.

Dry Season (May to October):

  • Weather: The weather is cooler and drier, especially in the highlands and cities like La Paz, Sucre, and Potosí. Additionally, the Amazon and lowland regions also experience less rain, making travel easier.
  • Advantages: Clear skies and sunny days are perfect for trekking, visiting salt flats, and exploring historical sites. This is the best time for visiting the Salar de Uyuni, as the salt flats are dry and accessible.

Wet Season (November to April):

  • Weather: This season brings more rain, particularly in the lowlands and Amazon basin. Meanwhile, the highlands and cities like La Paz still have some dry days but can be colder and more unpredictable.
  • Advantages: The wet season transforms the Salar de Uyuni into a giant mirror, providing a unique and stunning visual experience. Furthermore, the rain can bring lush green landscapes in the valleys and lowlands.
  • Challenges: However, travel can be more difficult due to muddy roads and potential flooding in some areas. Consequently, some regions might be less accessible.

Best Time for Specific Activities:

  • Salar de Uyuni: For the mirror effect, visit during the wet season (January to March). However, for easier access and trekking, visit during the dry season (June to October).
  • Trekking and Hiking: The dry season (May to October) is best for trekking in the Andes, including the popular trails around La Paz and the Cordillera Real.
  • Amazon Basin: While the dry season (May to October) offers better conditions for jungle tours, the wet season (November to April) brings higher water levels, making river travel easier and wildlife more visible.

5. How long should you stay?

Another controversial one. It really depends on what you are planning to do. For me five days were enough as I didn’t enjoy it that much. I found Peru way more fascinating and maybe this was the reason I didn’t appreciate Bolivia enough. However I really liked La Paz and I wish I had more time to explore not only the city but the surroundings as well.

Bolivia is a big country, and traveling from one place to another is very time-consuming. If I had the chance to redo my trip now, I would dedicate only one day to the Salar de Uyuni, which is absolutely amazing and definitely worth visiting. Additionally, I would spend more time in La Paz, taking a few day trips to Copacabana, Salt Island, etc. Alternatively, I might do the 3-day tour in the Uyuni region and then spend another three days in La Paz and the surrounding area. I’d say 1 week should be enough time for Bolivia.

6. Some more practical tips from my visit

  • Visa requirements: Entering the country does require a visa. Depending on where you are coming from, you might be eligible for a visa on arrival. However, this option is more expensive than the one you can get from an embassy. For example, we don’t have a Bolivian embassy in Bulgaria, so we visited the one in Cusco. To apply for the visa, you need to apply online here and submit the following documents: your passport, a picture of yourself, itinerary, hotel reservation, bank statement, and optionally a yellow fever vaccination. You need to print all that (including your application) and go to the embassy. You pay the tax (for us it was $30 via bank transfer), and a few hours later, you have your visa. On the other hand, the visa on arrival costs between $120 and $160 (I’ve read different opinions online, so I guess it varies).
  • you’ll pass a several luggage checks when flying to Bolivia. Once you arrive you’ll need to fill in a form on the spot, on paper or online. Same is done when you’re leaving the country.
  • make sure you have cash with you as card payments are not accepted everywhere. You can pay in both $ or bolivianos. We exchanged money at La Paz bus station.
  • traveling between locations can take time! The roads in some areas are not great, therefore transport may move slower than usual.
  • big part of the country has very high altitude, so make sure you dedicate some days to adjust. We came directly from Cusco so we were fine.
  • the city of Uyuni is covered in sand and dust which makes breathing extremely difficult. Bringing a mask might be helpful. We spent 3 days there and my nose was stuffed all the time, which make my experience unpleasant.
  • There aren’t many day trip options from Uyuni; to be precise, there are just two. Since distances are quite far, the only options are a tour to Salar de Uyuni and another one to Tomave. Therefore, if you want to go to the Colored Lagoon or Atacama Desert, take the three-day tour.
  • Idalgo agency in Uyuni has the premium offers and newest cars for the excursion bookings. Most agencies are located at Av. Ferroviaria.
  • Speaking Spanish will be very useful as most of the people don’t speak English.
  • There is extreme poverty around the country. Some views might be hearth-breaking…

What to see in La Paz!

We only had around a day and a half in the Bolivian capital, so we definitely didn’t have enough time to see many tourist attractions. However, there are a few places that we managed to explore. Here is a list of must-see locations while in La Paz:

1. Plaza Murillo

The main square of La Paz, home to the Presidential Palace, the National Congress, and the Cathedral of La Paz.

2. Witches’ Market (Mercado de las Brujas)

A famous market where you can find traditional herbs, remedies, and various items used in Aymara rituals.

3. Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon)

A surreal landscape with eroded rock formations resembling the surface of the moon awaits. Additionally, it’s also offered as a day trip from La Paz; however, you can easily go on your own as there is direct transport to the geological formations.

4. Mi Teleférico

The world’s highest and longest urban cable car system, providing stunning views of the city and surrounding mountains. As I explained above, it’s a unique way to see the city from above.

5. Calle Jaén

Nestled within the city lies a well-preserved colonial street adorned with colorful houses, museums, and art galleries. Moreover, you can find some museums such as the Museo de Metales Preciosos and Museo del Litoral Boliviano here.

6. San Francisco Church

A historic church and monastery with beautiful architecture and a fascinating museum.

7. Mirador Killi Killi

A viewpoint offering one of the best panoramic views of La Paz. It’s maybe the most famous viewpoint in the city. However we didn’t have time to go this one and found another one instead, will mention it below.

8. Park Montículo

Parque Montículo is renowned for its panoramic views of La Paz and the majestic Illimani mountain. Moreover, it’s a popular spot for both locals and tourists to enjoy the city’s skyline and the natural beauty of the Andes. It´s located in Sopocachi neighborhood.

9. El alto

El Alto, a city adjacent to La Paz, Bolivia, is one of the fastest-growing urban areas in the country and offers a unique and vibrant cultural experience. Some time ago it was part of La Paz, however now it´s a separate town where the Airport is located, which makes it the highest airport in the world at 4150m. El Alto is known for its rich cultural diversity, predominantly inhabited by Aymara people. The city is a hub of indigenous culture, traditions, and languages. It´s easily accessible using Mi Teleferico.

One of the most popular attractions in El Alto is Cholita wrestling, where indigenous women in traditional dress participate in professional wrestling matches. These events are vibrant and entertaining, showcasing a unique aspect of local culture. One of the largest street markets in Latin America, Feria 16 de Julio, is held every Thursday and Sunday. It offers everything from electronics and clothing to traditional crafts and food. Additionally, Mercado El Alto is another bustling market where visitors can experience local commerce and daily life. However, people say that El Alto isn’t the safest place in La Paz, so my advice is to avoid going there after dark.

And a few interesting places outside of La Paz:

1. Chacaltaya and Huayna Potosí

Nearby mountains popular for hiking and mountaineering. Often offered as daytrips from La Paz.

2. Tiwanaku Archaeological Site

Another day trip option. An ancient pre-Columbian archaeological site located a short drive from La Paz. The site consists of  the ruins of a once-thriving civilization, impressive stone structures with fascinating history.

3. Valle de las Ánimas

Valle de las Ánimas, or Valley of the Souls, is a stunning natural landscape located near La Paz, Bolivia. It is known for its dramatic and otherworldly rock formations. Valle de las Ánimas is located approximately 10 kilometers from the city center of La Paz. It is easily accessible by car or organized tours. However, this was the only day trip that we had time to do while in La Paz. The valley is famous for its towering, needle-like rock formations that resemble petrified souls or spirits, giving the valley its eerie and mystical name. These formations were created by millennia of erosion.

The whole tour lasts around 4-5 hours in total, but we were unlucky with the weather, so I honestly did nоt enjoy it that much. We paid 150 bolivianos per person, which includes transportation and a guide. Additionally, they take you to two viewpoints. The hike is not very hard, and the walking time is around 2.5 hours. Unfortunately, it was raining the whole time we were there, and I was soaking wet, which made my experience quite unpleasant. The view from there is supposed to be amazing, but I was not able to see it due to the clouds. Honestly speaking, this is the one tour I really regret doing.

What to see in Uyuni!

Uyuni became famous for its salt desert, El Salar de Uyuni, which is the biggest salt desert in the world. However, there are a few interesting spots in the area that are definitely worth visiting! As I previously explained, the most common trip is a 3-day tour covering an area of around 1000km. Initially, we thought that you could visit these places as separate day tours, but unfortunately, this is not possible unless you take private tours, which were extremely expensive. Consequently, we ended up visiting the Salar as a day trip, which matched the first day of the 3-day trip, and then took the only other day trip option available—to Tomave.

Now, let me tell you the itinerary of the 3-day tour, which I recommend taking when going to Uyuni:

Day 1: Uyuni to the Salt Flats and Incahuasi Island

  • Train Cemetery (Cementerio de Trenes):
    • Located just outside Uyuni, this site features abandoned locomotives from the early 20th century, creating a unique and eerie landscape.
  • Colchani:
    • A small village where you can see salt processing and buy local salt-based handicrafts.

Salar de Uyuni:

    • The world’s largest salt flat, spanning over 10,000 square kilometers. Highlights include:
      • Hexagonal Salt Formations: Natural patterns formed by the crystallization of salt.
      • Ojos de Sal: Small pools where underground water rises to the surface.
      • Salt Hotels: Unique structures entirely made of salt, like the Palacio de Sal.

Incahuasi Island:

    • An island in the middle of the salt flat covered with giant cacti and offering panoramic views of the Salar. It’s a perfect spot for hiking and photography.

Sunset at the Salt Flats:

    • Enjoy the stunning sunset reflecting off the salt flats, creating mirror-like effects during the wet season.

Overnight Stay:

    • Typically in a salt hotel or a basic accommodation in a nearby village. Basically this was the reason why we didn’t want to do the trip in a first place.

This was covered during our day trip to Salar de Uyuni. The price depends on your negotiating skills, we found offers from 170 to 250 bolivianos. It includes the guide, the vehicle, lunch and a sunset picnic with a glass of wine. Definitely worth it, it’s the most stunning place I’ve seen in my entire life!

Day 2: Andean Lagoons and Desert Landscapes

  1. Chiguana Desert:
    • A scenic desert area with volcanic rocks and fascinating geological formations.
  2. Laguna Cañapa:
    • A beautiful lagoon often inhabited by flamingos.
  3. Laguna Hedionda:
    • Known for its sulfur smell and large populations of flamingos.
  4. Laguna Honda:
    • Another picturesque lagoon with diverse birdlife.
  5. Arbol de Piedra (Stone Tree):
    • A famous rock formation sculpted by wind erosion, resembling a tree.
  6. Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve.
  7. Laguna Colorada (Red Lagoon):
    • A striking red-colored lagoon caused by algae and plankton, home to thousands of flamingos.
  8. Overnight Stay:
    • Typically in a basic accommodation within the national reserve.

Day 3: Geysers, Hot Springs, and Green Lagoon

  1. Sol de Mañana Geysers:
    • A geothermal area with bubbling mud pots, fumaroles, and geysers. Best visited early in the morning.
  2. Polques Hot Springs:
    • Enjoy a relaxing soak in the natural hot springs with a view of the surrounding landscape.
  3. Dali Desert:
    • Named after the surrealist painter Salvador Dalí, this desert features landscapes reminiscent of his paintings.
  4. Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon):
    • Located near the Chilean border, this lagoon gets its green color from the minerals and algae. It offers spectacular views of the Licancabur Volcano.
  5. Laguna Blanca (White Lagoon):
    • A nearby lagoon with a contrasting white color due to high mineral content.
  6. Return to Uyuni:
    • The tour typically ends with a drive back to Uyuni, arriving in the late afternoon or evening.

Trip to Tomave:

This was the only other day trip option that we could do from Uyuni. I will briefly explain what the trip is about. However, I wouldn’t recommend doing it if you have other options, as it’s nothing special and could be easily skipped. To begin with, the excursion starts at around 9:30 AM and finishes at 6:30-7:00 PM. Moreover, the price varies; we were offered prices ranging from 250 to 400 bolivianos. Ultimately, we paid 250 bolivianos ($36). It includes a guide, transportation, lunch and the entrance fee for the hot springs. Here is what we visited:

1. Centro minero Pulacayo

Centro Minero Pulacayo, or the Pulacayo Mining Center, is a historic mining site located near the town of Uyuni in the Potosí Department of Bolivia. The site is located at an altitude of approximately 4,200 meters above sea level. Pulacayo was established in the mid-19th century and quickly became one of the most important silver mining centers in Bolivia. Moreover, the site houses some of the earliest industrial mining infrastructure in Bolivia, including steam engines, railroads, and smelting facilities. During our visit, we explored the factory and walked around the city, which looks completely abandoned. However, to our surprise, it is still inhabited, and they even have a school!

 2. Tomave

Tomave, a lesser-known destination in Bolivia, offers visitors a glimpse into rural life, traditional culture, and beautiful natural landscapes. Located in the Potosí Department, Tomave is not as frequented by tourists as other Bolivian destinations, which kind of makes sense as there is almost nothing to see there. The only tourist attraction is the  Colonial church of Tomave dating from the 16th century. The church is built in a typical colonial style, featuring adobe walls, a simple yet elegant facade, and a modest bell tower. The architecture reflects the Spanish colonial influence blended with local materials and techniques. Additionally, we had our lunch there (the lunch is previously prepared and brought from Uyuni in boxes). entered something that looked like someone’s kitchen and we ended up having our lunch with the local people.

3. Visiting a few lagoons

We stopped at a few lagoons along the way which were pretty amazing. We visited a Pink one, a Turquoise one and a Celestial one. Most of the road goes through different mountains that are located at above 4500m. We saw thousands of llamas and vicuñas along the way. For those who don’t know the difference – llamas and alpacas are domesticated animals, while vicuñas and guanacos are wild and protected by the law.

4. Thermal baths

The area’s thermal springs are famous, so we stopped at one. Initially, the location looked quite questionable, and we weren’t sure if we wanted to enter the waters. However, as we got closer, it looked clean, so we took a 20-minute bath there. The view was pretty amazing though. This was our last stop before returning back to Uyuni.

Where to eat and drink in La Paz and Uyuni

  • Angelo Colonial – an amazing restaurant in La Paz Downtown, at Mercado de las Brujas. The interior is stunning and the food was absolutely amazing.

  • Typica cafe – the perfect brunch place in Sopocachi! The interior has this cozy hipster vibe and the food is deliecious!

  • Restaurant of Casa de Sal Hotel, Uyuni – we were struggling to find a good place to eat while in Uyuni, so I wouldn’t recommend any of the restaurants we tried except the one of our hotel. It’s more like fast food type of restaurant, offering pizzas and burgers, but I’d highly recommend the Llama burger, it was suuuper delicious!
Thank you for reading along! I hope I helped you decide what to see in Bolivia!

For more great long haul trip ideas, please take a look at our dedicated Long haul trips section.

Lilioftheworld.com wishes you Happy Travels!