Cusco and Machu Picchu
Dear Lilioftheworld.com reader, here is Izabela, your guest writer. I hope you enjoyed my first blog post about Peru where I covered the first 6 days of our 12 day trip around the country. The second half of the trip was focused on the Peruvian mountains. We distributed the days between Cusco and Machu Picchu.
If you want to read some interesting facts about the country, I’d recommend reading my first article where I share additional details. There you can find tips about Peru, when the best time to visit is and many more.
Useful tips
1. Transportation
Uber was our main mode of transportation while in Peru. It is safe, and prices were very cheap, so it made sense for us to use it. However, if you stay in Cusco’s old city center, you won’t need to use a car to move around.
Going to Machu Picchu is another story
The only way to reach it is by train. Or by bus and then walking a few hours, but if you want to use transportation, the train leaves from Ollantaytambo station. There are two main service providers: Perurail and Incarail. The ride consists of 2 hour bus ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo followed by another 1.30-2 hour train ride to Aguas Calientes, a.k.a Machu Picchu’s village. You can select between different service class of trains, the cheapest option was around $110 for a return ticket (May 2024). It is better to book your tickets in advance as options are limited.
We used Incarail Voyager and were very pleased with the organization. The bus departs from their office, which is conveniently located very close to the old city center in Cusco. The train journey provides breathtaking views of the Urubamba River, lush valleys, snow-capped mountains, and traditional Andean villages. Additionally, depending on the service class, trains offer varying levels of comfort. For instance, luxurious services like the Belmond Hiram Bingham provide gourmet meals, live music, and elegant interiors. Moreover, some trains offer traditional dance performances and fashion shows displaying Andean clothing, enhancing the cultural experience. However, there are strict luggage limits (typically a small backpack or bag) due to space constraints, so pack accordingly.
The train leaves you at Aguas Calientes, and from there, you need to take another bus to reach Machu Picchu itself. The return ticket costs $24, and my advice is to buy it immediately after you arrive in Aguas Calientes to avoid big queues when heading to the archaeological site. The bus ride takes around 25 minutes. Alternatively, you can choose the hiking path from Aguas Calientes or embark on the Inca Trail, which is a trek that lasts a few days.
For the rest of the excursions we did we used the transport provided by the travel agencies when we booked our tours.
2. Accommodation
Accommodation in Peru is very affordable. However, when booking your stay, take into consideration the elevation of the city. Some hotels and hostels are located very close to the old center, but they might be on a hill, requiring some “hiking.” Although it is not a big deal, the first few days until you adjust to the altitude could be very tiring. On the positive side, both Cusco and Aguas Calientes felt very safe, even at night. Additionally, our accommodation in Cusco was just 10 minutes away from the main square, which allowed us to explore most of the touristic places on foot.
3. How long should you stay?
Overall, a stay of 3-7 days in Cusco is typical, allowing for acclimatization, cultural immersion, and exploration of both the city and its surroundings. The ideal length of stay in Cusco depends on your interests and travel plans, but generally, here are some guidelines to consider. Experts recommend allowing yourself at least a couple of days for acclimatization. Although Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude (2,430 meters) compared to Cusco (3,400 meters), you should still acclimatize in Cusco or the Sacred Valley before the trip. We spent two nights in Aguas Calientes and four in Cusco doing some day trips to the nearby attractions.
4. Some more practical tips from my visit
- Altitude sickness is a real risk, so plan acclimatization accordingly. I did not have any severe side reactions, but during my first day and night I had fever, was trembling and vomited a few times. After 24 hours I felt better and did not have any problems since. My friends experienced some mild headaches.
- Buy some pills for the altitude sickness before you board your plane to Cusco. We were recommended AltiVital and took it for 3 days while in Cusco. Drink a lot of water and avoid greasy food. Chewing coca leaves or drinking it as tea will help as well.
- Choose carefully where you eat. Many tourists experience the so called “Peru belly” – caused by food poisoning or simply lack of decent sanitation in the kitchen. We got it in Paracas and was not fun at all…
- Drink only bottled water and preferably wash your teeth with it. The water is potable in general, but many foreigners get stomach issues when drinking it. So better safe than sorry.
- Most places widely accept card payments; however, they might charge you an additional 3-5% for using a card. Always keep some cash at hand, as both soles and USD are accepted.
- Book the tours on the spot, never online. Prices are 2-3 times cheaper! Do not take the first offer, visit 2-3 places to compare.
- Learn some Spanish, English is even more limited here compared to Lima.
- Try local food!
- If you plan to buy an item made from alpaca it’s good to know how to recognize it as there are tons of fake ones. Alpaca wool feels cold when you touch it. Original ones are sold in either specialized stores or local farms.
What to see in Cusco!
We had around four days in Cusco. One of the days should be definitely spent in adjusting to the altitude as it’s hard in the beginning. So take it easy!
Cusco is a city rich in history, culture, and architecture, offering numerous attractions for visitors. Here are ten must-see sights in Cusco:
Plaza de Armas
The main square of Cusco, surrounded by colonial buildings, vibrant gardens, and historical landmarks. Itβs a central hub for activities and a great starting point for exploring the city.
Cusco Cathedral
Located on the Plaza de Armas, this impressive cathedral is known for its stunning architecture, ornate interior, and significant collection of colonial art.
Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun)
Once the most important temple in the Inca Empire, dedicated to the sun god Inti. The Spanish built the Church of Santo Domingo on its foundations, blending Inca and colonial architecture.
SacsayhuamΓ‘n
A massive Inca fortress on the outskirts of Cusco, offering impressive stonework, panoramic views of the city, and a glimpse into Inca engineering prowess. This place is usually visited together with Q’enco, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay as a day trip. The entry cost for all four is 70 soles ($18). We booked this tour by chance during one Uber ride. We had a few free hours and our driver turned to be a tour guide in his spare time, so he offered to take us there. It lasted around 3 hours and we paid him 90 soles ($24) for the services. He was by far the best tour guide we had during the whole trip.
San Pedro Market
A bustling market where you can experience local life, sample Peruvian foods, and shop for souvenirs, fresh produce, and traditional crafts.
San Blas Neighborhood
Known for its narrow, winding streets, artisan workshops, and the picturesque San Blas Church, this area is a charming place to explore. Furthermore, it is especially appealing to art and craft enthusiasts.
Qenqo
A nearby archaeological site featuring a complex of carved rocks, tunnels, and channels, believed to have been used for ceremonial purposes by the Incas.
Puka Pukara
This “Red Fortress” was likely a military site and checkpoint along the road to the Sacred Valley. It offers insight into Inca defense strategies and has beautiful surrounding scenery.
Tambomachay
Known as the “Bath of the Inca,” this site features a series of aqueducts, canals, and waterfalls. Itβs believed to have been a place for ritualistic bathing and water worship.
Museo Inka
A museum located in an old colonial mansion, showcasing a comprehensive collection of Inca artifacts, including pottery, textiles, mummies, and metalwork, providing a deep dive into Inca history and culture.
“Manos de la comunidad”
“Manos de la Comunidad” in Cusco is a community-based initiative dedicated to preserving traditional Andean crafts and supporting local artisans. Visitors can learn about traditional weaving techniques, natural dyeing, and other crafts. Includes textiles, ceramics, jewelry, often made using traditional methods and materials. Many products are made from alpaca wool, a traditional and sustainable material. Visitors can learn about the importance of alpacas in Andean culture and their role in traditional weaving. The entrance is free and you can take tons of pictures with the cutest alpacas ever!
Day trips from Cusco
1. Rainbow mountain
- Rainbow Mountain, also known as Vinicunca or MontaΓ±a de Siete Colores, is one of Peru’s most stunning natural wonders. Located in the Andes near Cusco, it is renowned for its vibrant, multicolored landscape, which is a result of unique geological formations. Rainbow Mountain is situated approximately 100 kilometers (62 miles) southeast of Cusco in the Ausangate region of the Andes. The peak of Rainbow Mountain is at an elevation of about 5,200 meters (17,060 feet) above sea level, making acclimatization important for visitors. The mountainβs vibrant stripes of color are caused by mineral deposits. Red from iron oxide, green from chlorite, yellow from sulfur, and other colors from various minerals create the layered effect. We booked a guided tour that costs 80 soles. It usually starts at 4-5 a.m. when they pick you up from your hotel. There is a two hour ride to a small village where you have breakfast in a local restaurant. Then it follows another 2h ride to the starting point of the hike. The second half of the ride is quite scary as the path is through a narrow mountain road. The hike starts at 4700m and the end of the hike is at 5036m. It’s moderate hard, probably due to the lack of oxigen. The hike itself lasts for around 2.5h both ways. On the way back you stop at the same restaurant for lunch. The tour ends up in Cusco at 4-5pm. It’s absolutely worth it!
2. Maras and Moray
Salt mines and circular agricultural terraces, typically done as a half-day tour.
3. Sacred Valley
Exploring towns like Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero for a day or two is highly recommended. Initially, we were eager to embark on this tour; however, due to unforeseen circumstances, we had only one day available for day tours. Consequently, we chose to visit Rainbow Mountain instead. Although we briefly visited Ollantaytambo to catch the train to Machu Picchu, it is definitely worth exploring in more depth.
Trip to Machu Picchu!
Machu Picchu is one of the most iconic and well-preserved archaeological sites in the world, often referred to as the “Lost City of the Incas.” Machu Picchu was built in the 15th century during the height of the Inca Empire. It is believed to have been a royal estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti. It sits at an elevation of approximately 2,430 meters (7,970 feet) above sea level. Visitors can reach Machu Picchu via train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, followed by a bus ride up to the site. Alternatively, trekkers can arrive via the famous Inca Trail. A guided tour is highly recommended to fully appreciate the historical and cultural context of the site. Highlights include the Sun Gate, the Inca Bridge, and the numerous terraces and temples.
I’ve already explained the transportation we used to get there.Β We planned to spend 2 nights in Aguas Calientes as we wanted to visit it as early as possible and then have some time to rest afterwards. The tickets we bought in advance as there is a daily limit of visitors – around 4500 per day. Around 1000 of these are sold on the spot. There are multiple fake websites that are selling tickets, so make sure you purchase from the official one. There are 4 different paths to select from.
We chose Circuito 1 o 2 + Inca bridge.
The price was 152 soles (2024). This path excludes the surrounding mountains and is the only one that gives you access to the terrace where you can take the most iconic pictures. We booked a private guided tour and paid $80 (it’s $60 if you don’t go to the Inca bridge). If you decide to go to the Inca bridge, you start with this hike and then you move to the ruins. My advice is to enter as early as possible to avoid crowds. You can enter the site 1h before the selected entrance time and 30 minutes after it. I spent around 3-4 hours inside.
Many people visit the Thermal baths after the hike. They are located in Aguas Calientes and the entrance fee is 20 soles. We also planned to visit it and actually went there, but honestly didn’t like the hygiene and decided not to enter in the end.
Where to eat and drink in Cusco:
- Mistura Grill Cusco – There are many restaurants at Plaza de Armas and we were recommended to go there if we want to have the best food. Cusco is the best place for trying local meat dishes. Most famous ones are llama and guinea pig meals. It was extremely delicious!
- Limbus restobar – one for the rooftop bar lovers! Definitely try the Pisco Sour! I’m a big fan of Nachos and theirs were the best I’ve eaten in my life (although it’s not a traditional Peruvian dish). It’s located in a very beautiful neighborhood and the view is stunning.
- San Pedro market – for the brave ones. There are many small local restaurants based in the market that looked quite delicious. However after surviving the food poisoning in Paracas I was not open to eat in such places, so we only bough fruits from there. I would recommend tasting as many fruits as possible because what we import here in Europe does not taste nearly as good as it is there!
If you went by far, then you already know that visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu is a lifetime experience! Where words and photos are sometimes not enough to describe, here is also a summary of my video impressions to help you submerge into the vibrant feeling:
Thank you for reading along! I hope I helped you decide what to see in Cusco and Machu Picchu!
For more great long haul trip ideas, please take a look at our dedicatedΒ Long haul tripsΒ section.
Lilioftheworld.com wishes you Happy Travels!
Lima and Paracas
