Chichen Itza

Dear lilioftheworld.com reader, here is Lili, your co-editor. After a very relaxing vacation by the seaside in Cozumel (for our full story just click on the link) we continue our Mexican adventure in Chichen Itza.

Chichen Itza is not only one of the most visited places across Mexico, but also in the whole world. Since 1988 it is a UNESCO World heritage site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Its mysterious spirit and magnificent architecture make it attractive for more and more tourists each year.

I don’t go into details regarding the Mayan culture in the present article, as there are plenty of sources, where you can learn more about it. The focus, instead, is on our experience of exploring this amazing venue in a private way, avoiding the tourist crowds. I think that sharing it with you can be very useful for your first visit to Chichen Itza.

The trip to the inner part of Mexico

After seven days of full relaxation in Cozumel, we were ready to head to Mexico mainland. We took the earliest ferry from Cozumel to Playa del Carmen. The idea was to rent a car from Playa del Carmen, travel around and then return it directly at the Cancun airport (from where we flew back to Europe). After doing some research online, we found that this was the most optimal way of transportation. Besides Chichen Itza, we wanted to visit also Tulum and some other things on the way to the Mayan venue. And we had just two days to do this.

The drive between Playa del Carmen and Chichen Itza is around two hours. The roads were good and not that busy.

The hotel

Around late afternoon we got to our hotel- Mayaland Hotel and Bungalows. The initial room that we got wasn’t properly cleaned and we wasted some time while changing it. However, it was worth it as we were upgraded to a more premium one with an amazing view.

Why did we choose this specific hotel? The answer is simple. Mayaland Hotel and Bungalows offers a private entrance to Chichen Itza and also a private tour to the site. This is a unique opportunity to feel the energy of this special place and walk around it almost by yourself. We have read many positive reviews and giving it a try was a very good decision.

Of course as it is a 5-star hotel you have all the benefits such hotel class offers. Swimming pools, spa area, block table and a beautiful open-air restaurant. The whole set-up was very romantic and peaceful.

The Chichen Itza Tour

The tour though is not included in the room price. It is not cheap- around €75-80 per person, but  totally worth the experience.

The tour starts at 4 AM, so we had to get up very early in the morning. The group consisted of about 30 people and they divided us into smaller groups of 6 to 10 people according to the language preference. Our guide started leading us into the darkness through something like a forest. We could hear only the grasshoppers and the birds singing. We had the feeling that we are walking way too long as the historical complex should have been really close to the hotel. This thought had just crossed our minds, when suddenly the guide turned-off his torch.

He asked us to look to our right. In the next few seconds our sight was adjusting to the darkness.. And then we saw it- the majestic Mayan pyramid was standing 10 meters away from us. We could distinguish only its borders, sacredly lit by the moonlight. I still have goosebumps when I remember this particular moment. No need to say that the whole group was speechless.

The guide started telling us more about the Mayans and their history.  Of course I forgot most of it- I was enchanted by the fact that I was standing right in the middle of this amazing place. Further to this, we were almost alone there, making the moment even more special. Little by little, the sunrise was approaching and we could see the main pyramid in its full glory. As we usually give our readers a highlight story from every trip, at the end of the article you will find a legend about the power of love at first sight. This love was also the reason why Chichen Itza was abandoned around the 12th century.

Duration of the tour

The whole tour was 1.5 hours after which the guide left us for another 1.5 hours to explore the site on our own. He briefed us to leave latest at 8 AM, when the complex opens its doors for normal visitors.

The main things you should explore in Chichen Itza:

• The Pyramid of Kukulcan or El Castillo

Of course this is the signature landmark of Chichen Itza- each one of you have seen it either on TV or Internet. It is popular also as “The Castle”. The Mayan built the pyramid as dedication to the Feathered Serpent God, Kukulcan. There are several things that I find interesting about this castle.

Many tourists come here at sunset in order to see the serpent which the shadows from the corner tiers create on the Spring and Fall equinox. No need to say that the place gets very crowded during this time of the year.

Another interesting fact is related to its acoustics. Mayans designed the pyramid in such a way that it echoes different sounds. This mechanism was necessary back in the days when there were big gatherings. The priest stood in a particular location and when he spoke his voice had to be heard from everyone in the area. When clapping, you can hear a special sound which reminds of a singing bird (we hope you can hear it in the next video).

In the past it was possible to climb on the pyramid. However, the thousands of tourists going up and down had a damaging effect on the building. So the government decided to forbid this practice some 15 years ago.

• The cenote Cagrado

We will tell more about the cenotes (sinkholes) which are very typical for the whole Yucatan peninsula in another article. The Chichen Itza cenote was less spectacular as compared to others. It is located a few hundred meters away from the caste. It was one of the water sources for the Mayan complex. Spanish records report that the locals threw young female victims into the largest of these cenotes, alive, as sacrifices to the Maya rain god thought to live in its depths. Archaeologists have since found their bones, as well as the jewelry and other precious objects they wore.

• Chichén Itzá’s ball court

This is (at least what most people believe it is) a place where Mayans played a special game. “During ritual games here, players tried to hit a 12-pound (5.4-kilogram) rubber ball through stone scoring hoops set high on the court walls.

Competition must have been fierce indeed- losers were put to death.”, writes National Geographic. However, our guide did not think this place was a game venue. Who builds a stadium close to the place where you worship your Gods? Fruit for some more thought.

• Temple of the warriors

Standing on a platform east of El Castillo is the Temple of the Warriors (Templo de los Guerreros), a magnificent structure comprising several spacious columned halls. Several rows of square pillars guard the foot of the stairway, at the top of which squats a Chacmool.

A chacmool is a pre-Columbian Mesoamerican sculpture representing a reclining body of a man supporting himself with his elbows. The head is facing the front and the man has a bowl or a disc on his stomach. These figures possibly symbolized slain warriors carrying offerings to the gods. Much is unknown about the origin, significance and purpose of the Chac Mool statues, but ongoing studies have proven a strong link between them and Tlaloc, Mesoamerican god of rain and thunder.

• Tzompantli: The Wall of Skulls

This is a wall which serves as a base for the stakes where decapitated heads of human sacrifices stood, hence the reliefs consisting of rows of skulls decorating the sides.

Besides this main part of the complex, there are a couple of smaller pyramids. Among them are The Tomb of the High Priest, the temple of the Jaguars, the Planetarium, etc. This is where our visit to the historical Mayan complex came to an end. It was a morning that we will never forget.

We hope you enjoyed this private visit to this great ancient Mayan town. Do not miss the other Mexican points of interest, as well as our other Long-Haul Trip ideas. 

The legend about Sac-Nicte and Canek (the story is taken and modified from Jademidnight) 

Around the 12th century Canek (in translation Black serpent), a bold and noble 21-year old  prince was about to become the king of Chichen Itza (a government/ empire alliance power part of a Mayan Empire). During the day of the ceremony for making him a king, he saw and met Sac-Nicte (in translation “white flower”) a 15-year-old Mayapan princess. He immediately fell in love with her,  so did she with him.

Later that day Canek went home, he was restless for the whole night and cried to himself because he was so deeply in love with Sac-Nicte. Unfortunately, Sac-Nicte had an arranged marriage. Her father had arranged that she marries Ulil, the prince of Uxmal. However, the thought of being with someone she did not love terrified Sac-Nicte. Both felt in depression because they thought their true love was somehow impossible.

Love from first sight is sometimes impossible

Canek was in pain, suffering and hopeless until all of a sudden an old man appeared in front of him. The man softly spoke with a hushed tone and said ”The flower waits for you in the fresh flower garden, shall you allow another man to take the flower that belongs to you?” After this the man vanished and was never heard from again.

3 days passed. The marriage ceremony was beginning and everyone in the empire was there except for Canek. Right in the middle of the ceremony, Canek came with 60 of his best men and took Sac-Nicte away with him. Both escaped the city. Not only this, but all the people of Chichen Itza followed them. Hunacc and Ulil were obsessed with rage and tried to go after Canek, but when they arrived to his village, it was completely abandoned. 

Science says a different story about the abandonment of Chichen Itza, but as this love story makes it more charming, I would prefer to think this is what actually happened :).